Diving into Beqa Lagoon: An Unforgettable Journey in the Fiji Islands

The breathtaking Fiji Islands, scattered across the vast expanse of the South Pacific, provide a true sanctuary for diving enthusiasts from around the world. Among the 333 islands that make up this tropical paradise, Beqa Island stands out, particularly for its exceptional marine biodiversity and, more specifically, its thrilling bull shark dives. Whether you’re an experienced diver or a curious beginner excited to explore underwater wonders, a trip to Beqa Lagoon promises a uniquely thrilling adventure filled with extraordinary encounters and captivating discoveries that will leave you breathless.

As bulldog and nurse sharks circle the dumpster,
photographers have limited control over image composition!

Getting to Beqa Island

To reach Beqa Island, your journey often begins at Nadi International Airport, which is easily accessible from numerous destinations around the globe. Conveniently located to the west of Viti Levu, the largest island in Fiji, this airport serves as the primary gateway to the archipelago. Alternatively, you could also opt for Suva Airport, situated in the capital city, southeast of Viti Levu. Regardless of which airport you choose, once you touch down, you’ll embark on a scenic drive that lasts a few hours. The shortest route is typically from Suva, leading you through picturesque landscapes that set the stage for the adventure to come.

A motorized pirogue takes you up the Navua River,
which travellers then descend on large inner tubes.

After soaking up the stunning views along the road, you’ll arrive at a variety of hotels that provide access to the local “stars” underwater—most notably, the awe-inspiring bull sharks. While it’s possible to lodge directly on Beqa Island, many dive centers are bustling with excitement from Pacific Harbour, a favored spot for adventurous divers. It was here that we decided to settle in at The Pearl Hotel, which hosts the renowned Aqua-Trek dive center. This center is especially well-regarded for its expertly organized dive excursions, including morning trips featuring two dives and sometimes afternoon outings, depending on the weather conditions that Fiji is so well-known for.

Diving with Sharks

Diving with the sharks of Beqa Lagoon takes place in the Shark Reef Marine Reserve, a pristine area that has been protected since 2004 and is globally recognized for its exhilarating dive experiences. The dives organized by Aqua-Trek primarily focus on a magical site known as “Le Bistro,” where the dive teams regularly conduct exhilarating feeding sessions. These heart-pounding encounters occur four times a week, and each outing typically includes two consecutive dives, allowing you to immerse yourself fully in the underwater realm.

Kneeling behind a small coral wall,
divers have a front-row seat to watch the shark ballet.

As the boat gently anchors on a mesmerizing underwater pinnacle that rises to a mere 16 feet (5 meters) below the surface, divers are filled with anticipation. They eagerly descend along this impressive formation to reach a plateau situated at a depth of 59 feet (18 meters). Once they’ve settled in, divers can comfortably position themselves behind a small coral wall—an ideal vantage point to enjoy the spectacular show about to unfold. It’s a wise choice to wear a full wetsuit to protect against those pesky scrapes from the corals, as unexpected encounters with these mesmerizing formations can be a thrilling part of the experience.

The Feeding Spectacle

When the dive officially begins, a feeding bin filled with enticing chunks of fish, referred to by locals as the “feeding bin,” is lowered to mid-depth using an ingenious pulley system. As divers prepare themselves behind the welcoming coral wall, the sharks, tempted by the mouthwatering aroma of the freshly presented feast, start to gather in the waters nearby. Initially, the sharks glide gracefully around, creating an elegant yet powerful dance beneath the surface. But hold on tight—the adrenaline really kicks in when the feeding bin is finally opened. In that thrilling moment, the sharks launch themselves toward the bin with impressive speed, creating an electrifying and captivating atmosphere that’s simply unforgettable.

Bulldog sharks sometimes pass very close to cameras,
so a fisheye or ultra-wide-angle lens is needed to photograph them.

As the contents of the feeding bin are expertly devoured, the excitement begins to wane, and the sharks gradually disperse into the blue depths. At this point in the dive, if the conditions are favorable, the guides warmly encourage all divers to cross over the coral wall for a tantalizing chance to glimpse any lingering sharks that might still be seeking a snack.

The Safety of Divers

Ensuring the safety of divers is of paramount importance during these exhilarating feeding sessions. Fijian dive guides are equipped with long poles that serve not only as tools for directing the sharks, but also as reassuring barriers between the divers and any overly curious sharks. This strategy conjures images of mythological figures like Poseidon, the revered god of the sea, allowing divers to feel safe and secure amid the electrifying experience they’ve chosen to dive into.

Once the garbage can has been opened,
the sharks are in a frenzy and the adrenaline is pumping for the divers!

Photographers are often fortunate enough to take up position right in front of the coral wall, allowing for the breathtaking opportunity to capture stunning images of the sharks in their natural habitat. Each encounter with these majestic creatures—which can number up to 20 within your line of sight—creates an intense moment of connection between humans and nature. It’s a thrilling experience that sparks admiration and respect for these often-misunderstood apex predators, reminding us of the delicate balance that exists within our oceans.

A Rich Marine Biodiversity

Beqa Lagoon isn’t just a thrilling playground for bull sharks; it boasts a diverse array of marine life that keeps divers coming back for more. You can spot up to eight different species of sharks during your underwater escapades, including nurse sharks, silver-tipped sharks, and lemon sharks. While it’s true that tiger sharks inhabit the region, they aren’t commonly seen, yet every dive harbors the promise of new and exciting sightings.

This sunken wreck on the “Le Bistro” site alone would merit several dives,
but the sharks remain the main attraction.

Beyond the sharks, divers are often delighted to come across impressive Queensland groupers, which occasionally join the aquatic feast, alongside various predatory fish that add splashes of vibrant color to the underwater spectacle. Overall, these dives provide a fascinating glimpse into rich marine life and greatly enhance the overall diving experience for everyone involved.

The Ethical Dilemmas of Feeding

It’s crucial to critically examine the moral implications of feeding sharks. As avid divers, we’ve often been taught to minimize our interactions with marine life. The act of luring and feeding sharks for the pleasure of tourists doesn’t seem to align with this foundational principle at first glance. Yet, the worldwide population of sharks has significantly declined over recent years, primarily due to commercial fishing—especially in the cruel shark fin trade—which threatens the delicate balance within our aquatic ecosystems.

At the finish of the feeding, the sharks disperse,
and divers are invited to go behind the wall to approach the few stragglers.

When regulated effectively, the diving industry can serve as a catalyst for positive changes in the public’s perception of sharks. By encouraging awareness and fostering an understanding of these magnificent creatures within their natural habitat, we can promote a greater appreciation and respect for them. The funds collected from diving taxes in the marine reserve go toward financing educational programs and ensuring the protection of local species, which ultimately benefits both divers and the ocean itself.

It’s worth mentioning that there’s been no increase in shark attacks reported at Beqa Island since the inception of the feeding dives back in 1999—this offers an intriguing perspective on the relationship between humans and these awe-inspiring marine predators.

Coral Reef Diving

Although Beqa Lagoon is primarily celebrated for its exhilarating shark dives, the surrounding coral reefs merit just as much attention. Renowned as the “capital of soft corals,” this enchanting archipelago showcases an impressive variety of underwater landscapes just waiting to be explored. Dive centers routinely arrange outings to take divers to different sites that extend beyond mere shark-watching.

These bright red gorgonians are characteristic of the waters of Beqa Lagoon.

For instance, sites like “Three Nuns” feature stunning pinnacles adorned with lush purple gorgonians and colorful corals, while another area, “Fantasy,” invites divers with its unique coral formations and enticing overhangs. Additionally, “The Aquarium” offers an unforgettable experience with its traversable cave, which spans at least 20 feet (6 meters) in diameter, enticing photographers to capture breathtaking and artistic images.

Every flash into the grotto of “The Aquarium” reveals the variegated corals lining its walls.

Other Activities on Beqa Island

For those looking to extend their adventure beyond diving, Beqa Island boasts a plethora of both land- and water-based activities to keep your days filled with excitement. A motorized canoe trip along the scenic Navua River promises an exhilarating experience. After enjoying the stunning landscapes along the river, you can cool off by plunging into crystal-clear waters beneath breathtaking waterfalls, providing a refreshing escape from the tropical heat.

With its lush vegetation, rivers and waterfalls, the island offers a wide range of excursions.

If you’re after thrills, you can also try white-water rafting on the wild rapids that will surely add an element of excitement to your visit. Moreover, you can tour a traditional Fijian village, where families work diligently to preserve their unique way of life while warmly welcoming visitors. This cultural immersion enriches your experience and allows for a deeper understanding of local heritage that visitors might otherwise miss.

Practical Information

Time Zone

Fiji operates on a time difference of 10 to 11 hours from Europe, depending on the time of year, which may cause you to adjust your internal clock throughout your visit.

Water Temperature

Typically, the water temperature ranges from 77 °F (25 °C) in August and September to as high as 82 °F (28 °C) between January and March, providing pleasant diving conditions year-round.

Diving Equipment

For a safe and comfortable dive, it is advisable to wear a 3mm wetsuit during the warm season and a 5mm wetsuit in cooler months for optimal comfort during your underwater adventures.

Cost of Stays

In terms of budget, for example, a week at the Beqa Lagoon Resort, including 10 dives, can cost around €3,995 (approximately $4,520). This is an excellent option for diving enthusiasts who are eager to experience the marine wonders of the region.

Tips for Divers

To maximize your diving experience, it’s best to stay directly on Beqa Island. This offers not just access to daytime dives but also provides the unique opportunity to embark on night dives, giving you an entirely different perspective of the underwater marvels that await.

Conclusion

In conclusion, the Fiji Islands, with a special emphasis on Beqa Island, offer an unforgettable blend of exhilarating marine adventures and enriching cultural experiences. Whether you’re diving with magnificent sharks, exploring vibrant coral reefs teeming with life, or discovering the authentic Fijian culture, every moment spent here transforms into a cherished memory. The warm-hearted people of Fiji will greet you with a genuine “Bula!” creating a welcoming atmosphere that just might entice you to return and further explore the wonders of this extraordinary region. All in all, Beqa Lagoon stands out as a must-visit destination for any diving aficionado and marine adventure seeker looking to create lasting memories beneath the waves.

Text : Nicolas Remy / Photos : Nicolas et Léna Remy